A generation ago, Soave was a bit of a joke among wine enthusiasts. It was often the cheap house white served at middling Italian restaurants. That wine, served in carafe, was flat and oxidized, and thus Soave became a symbol for wine mediocrity. A new generation, though, is revitalizing the wine and showing that Soave-when made with modern care- can be one of Italy’s most exciting whites. The Tessari family, which founded Ca’ Rugate in the early 1900s, has overseen this evolution. Founder Amedeo Tessari died in World War I, and his wife raised their children until the oldest, Fulvio, could take over. Fulvio instilled a quality- first dogma at the winery, snapping up many of the great parcels in Soave’s Rugate Hills, near the family residence. Fulvio’s sons, Amedeo, Giovanni and Michele, eventually took over, setting the stage for the modern era. The irrefutable purity of this wine thrills us, as does its generational success story.